Tag Archives: Underwater Video

Nauticam WWL-1 on Sony Full Frame what to expect

It has been almost 9 years since my first review of the Nauticam WWL-1 and five years ago I revisited this lens on micro four thirds.

Since the very first release I was told by Nauticam that the WWL-1 had been tested on Sony full frame with the 28mm f/2 lens and since then more lenses have been added to the compatibility list and the WWL-1 itself has had a redesign called WWL-1B, this lens has an integrated float collar and I do not know if there is any difference in the optics but I assume there is none.

Nauticam WWL-1B

Nauticam has since released a number of other water contact optics with dry mount and today you have a choice of at least 3 flavours for your Sony full frame camera that provide the 130 degrees diagonal field of view.

ModelPrice (€)Weight (kg)Diameter (mm)Depth (mm)Max Filter size (mm)
WWL-114241.351569752
WACP-C29302.24170145.572
WACP-146043.9019417682
Summary Table Nauticam 0.36x Water Contact Optics

The three lenses provide the same field of view but they are different in size and mount. A useful way to see is that as the lens physical size grows you require a larger underwater optic.

The Sony E-Mount is still the only full frame format compatible with the WWL-1 in virtue of some really small and compact lenses. As you can see from the table above the WWL-1 rear element is large enough for 28mm lenses that have a maximum filter size of 52mm.

Two E-mount full frame lenses the 28/2mm prime and the 28-60mm zoom are compatible with the WWL-1.

As you move towards the WACP-C you can also use the 28-70mm lens which is one of the worst kit lenses on the market but will give you a longer tele end and finally the WACP-1 gives access to the Tamron 28-75mm and Sigma 24-70mm two lenses that have much higher quality than the smaller Sony lenses but have some restriction in terms of zoom range.

Underwater Performance Context

There are quite long discussions about which water contact optic to get for your Sony full frame once you have the 28-60mm zoom and some comparison in terms of sharpness.

In simple terms you can think of the following equation:

Underwater Performance = Land performance X Port Factor

Port Factor is always less than 1 which means a lens will never do in water as well than it does on land. Looking at my analysis of the 28-60mm corroborated by other test you know before buying any water contact lens that the lens has its own limitations and no matter how good is the port performance will only go down. However this may still be a better option compared to a standard dome port.

I do not have access (yet) to the other two water contact optics however I have a good idea of how the WWL-1 perform and how the Sony 28-60mm performs topside. If you want a refresh look at this article.

To understand how a water contact optic works you can go back all the way to the Inon UWL-100.

The idea of this lens designed for compact cameras is to demagnify the camera master lens to enlarge the field of view. You could then get an optional dome that will enable the lens to expand the underwater field of view from 100 to 131 degrees.

Back in 2015 I compared the Inon UWL-H100 with dome with the WWL-1 and concluded that the WWL-1 was giving better results when used on the same camera. It is now time to see if the WWL-1 can be used also on a full frame system.

Sony A1 WWL-1 Rig

The WWL-1 requires the flat port 45 to be used on a Sony full frame underwater housing. The lens will be attached using the same bayonet adapter that has been available for several years now.

Nauticam Bayonet Mount for WWL-1

I have removed the focus knob from the port as I found it inconvenient. The focus knob may be useful with the flat port but for the WWL-1 that is afocal is definitely not required.

WWL-1 topside view

Once you add the flat port the overall length is very much the same of the WACP-C but this will require an extension ring resulting in overall 30mm additional length.

Overall the rig is very similar in weight to the Canon 8-15mm with the Acrylic Dome Port 5.5″.

WWL-1 front side view

Pool Tests

With the rig assembled I went for a pool session with the objective of finding out what was the overall performance of the system.

What follows are a series of test shots of divers.

David f/8
Kid f/8
f/11 side shot
WWL-1 selfie 28mm
Diver f/10

In general I found the lens to be sharper in the centre at f/8 but closing down to f/11 was required if there was something in the corners.

Edge Sharpness

I was intrigued by a number of discussions on edge sharpness and after several exchanges with Shane Smith he was clear that the lens needs to be stopped down to f/11 for best results.

After the session in the pool I would agree with Shane however I was curious if this was an issue of the WWL-1 or the 28-60mm lens itself.

This image quite simple has something at the edges and has focus in the centre at f/8.

Closeup f/8

You will notice that the part of the frame closer to the camera is fairly blurry.

So I did another experiment placing the slate on the edge.

Fuzzy f/8

The edges were quite fuzzy. I wanted to exclude this was an issue of depth of field so I focussed right on the corner.

f/8 focus on corner

This is the resulting image and is still soft on the edge.

fuzzy f8 focus

I then took the same shot at f/11 with focus on centre.

Closeup f/11

The image at the edges is better. Then moved the slate to the edge.

edge f/11

The image improved overall regardless of the focus point indicating this is not a depth of field issue but some other defect of the lens, most likely as the lens meridional and sagittal resolution are different we have an example of astigmatism.

Edge 100% crop f/11
Blurry f/8 edge focussed on edge

The sharpness improves closing down the lens regardless of where the lens is focussing consistent to the MTF charts.

Looking back at land test shots we can see something very similar.

Edge at f/11 topside
Edge at f/8 top side

In conclusion it is not about the WWL-1 but about the lens itself.

Comparison to Rectilinear lenses

While the WWL-1 can offer a diagonal feld of view of 130 degrees the image is distorted and the lens can only offer 107 degrees horizontally and 70 vertically. Is like saying that the horizontal field of view is similar to a 13mm rectilinear lens while the vertical is is more like 17mm. A fair comparison is probably a 14mm rectilinear lens but as the WWL-1 is a fisheye like optic a direct comparison is not entirely possible. In my opinion as the image is distorted is more appropriate to compare the WWL-1 with a fisheye with teleconverter and when I look at what the canon 8-15mm with kenko 1.4 tc can produce for me the results are very similar, I would say the Canon has in fact an edge however the field of view are not comparable except when the WWL-1 is at the widest and the canon with the tc at the maximum zoom. I would go as far as to say that the canon + TC at f/8 is as good as the WWL-1 at f/11.

Canon 8-15mm with TC at 21mm f/8

Conclusion

If you have the WWL-1 from your previous rig it makes absolutely sense to get the Sony 28-60mm and flat port. This combination will give you decent (but not sensational) shots and work very well for 4K video at reduced resolution. I do not believe that this lens can resolve the full 50 or 60 megapixels of the A1 or A7R4 or A7R5 even topside.

If you are starting from scratch I would recommend to think careful at your intended use case. If you want angles wider than 130 degrees and already have the Canon 8-15mm you may want to check the kenko telecovenverter before you buy a new port as all you need is a 20mm extension ring and a zoom gear.

If you really like the field of view range of 69-130 degrees you need to consider which water contact optic you need.

I am still looking for a test WACP-C but until then my general guidance would be to consider simply if you prefer a dry or wet mount.

A dry mount has the benefit of being ready to go as you hit the water, without the need to remove bubbles between the wet lens and the port. As photographer a dry mount may be the best way forward.

If you intend to use your camera for video and insert filters between the lens and the flat port or you require the lens to be removed in water then go for the WWL-1.

Rigorous comparisons between WACP-C and WWL-1 are not yet available but the first indications are that the difference in image quality is very small therefore I would not loose my sleep there and look more at overall ergonomics.

The final consideration is should you get the WACP-1 instead? Based on my assessment of the Sony 28-60mm I would think this is not particularly wise even if this choice is very popular. Personally I always believe that the master lens needs to be good enough to justify the cost of the water optic so I would like to see how the Tamron 28-75mm performs however no test images are available so I am not in a position to conclude.

In my case having seen what the Sony 28-60mm lens can do I am not planning to invest in a WACP-C but I would be very interested in testing one.

The WWL-1 gets my approval also on full frame but it is not going to give me the same resolution than the Canon 8-15mm or the Sony 90mm macro will give. I look forward to testing some rectilinear lenses to see how those compare and this will happen in a week from now so stay tuned.

Costs to get one for your Sony full frame excluding lens:

  • WWL-1B €1,424
  • Bayonet adapter €102
  • N100 45 flat port €494

Total €2,020 vs WACP-C + N100 Extension Ring 30 €3,333

Nikkor UW15 on Sony Mirrorless for photography – Worth it?

Nauticam makes some really interesting adapters and ports for Sony cameras, one of them allows you to use vintage Nikkor lenses on full frame mirrorless cameras.

I decided to source the UW15 as I am planning to use it for video after seeing the results on the movie Avatar.

The challenge of the Nikkor lenses is that they are entirely manual with aperture and focus knobs. This is generally not an issue for videography which is my intended use but I wanted to check how does this lens work for photography as many people still rave about it.

Lenses compatible with the adapter are UW 15, UW 20 and UW 85 full manual. Later autofocus lenses are not supported.

The Rig

My rig is a classic derivation from wide angle with 8″ and 12″ arm segments and my trusty (!) Sea and Sea YS-D2.

Nikkor 15mm rig

The Nikkor weights around 600 grams and gives almost zero lift so this rig was over 300 grams negative in fresh water.

Before using it you need to assemble the lens on the adapter.

Nauticam Nikonos Adapter

You have two parts that can be removed to allow the lens to mount depending on your preference. I set the lens with the display upright so I could try and see it while shooting.

Nauticam Nikkor adapter top side

The controls are located on the left side side and bottom which is where I normally have my levers.

Nauticam Nikkor adapter controls

On the right you will see the display scales.

Nikkor UW15 Aperture and Focus Display

I have to say I was a bit nervous setting this on my A1 considering that this is a lens that is 25 years old at least but the vacuum test was fine so ready to go to the pool with the friends at Rec2Tec Bletchley.

The UW 15 Construction

The Nikkor lenses were generally rectilinear. The 15mm has a field of view equivalent to 20mm so only 94 degrees on the diagonal.

The approach was to correct the water distortion until such point when the image becomes rectilinear and eliminate other aberrations.

I have to say that the amount of chromatic aberrations is practically non existant.

White balance slate

Rectilinear lenses have gone out of fashion since dome ports with fisheye distortion being the preferred look for wide angle in modern underwater photography. For video though straight lines have a value.

Pool Session

Using this lens on the Sony A1 proved challenging for photography. Nailing the focus using peaking did not feel particularly precise.

Not so sharp focus

Some shots may have been sharp enough on film resolution but with the 50 megapixels of the A1 even the slightest misfocus shows.

Is it in focus?

My productivity was quite low at the beginning as I was trying to get a hand of the lens.

The lens itself is by all means extremely sharp even for my camera.

Grid

I worked out that I could not do what I normally do which is to frame first and focus after as by the time I had nailed the focus things would have moved so I decided to set the focus and move forward or back until I thought I had my target in focus.

The situation started to improve.

DSD student with Instructor David Allen

I felt I had worked out how to use the lens so started looking for some subjects. During those sessions you see all sort of stuff as people practice their skills.

Riding

Considerations on the controls

I believe that the average underwater photographer shooting digital will find it very hard to use this lens and will end up shooting at f/8 or smaller apertures so that focussing becomes easier. The lens is especially challenging as it is not particularly wide so you do need strobe power.

DSD Student

I found really hard the lack of display of aperture and focus position. The lens is designed for much smaller Nikonos housing, with my A1 housing being more bulky you need to actually turn and look at the lens to check your settings so many times I did not have the right aperture of focus and it all was pretty laborious. In a video situation for wide angle this lens will work just fine with set and forget at 4K but to nail focus on a high megapixel camera is a hard task.

When you do get the focus though the image is outstanding.

Just married

I tried a selfie to check the focus scale and it worked well.

Selfie

Consider that the most shots were at f/5.6 or f/8.

Dave

As you have no exif data it is impossible to remember what you shot unless you write it down on a slate.

Is it worth it?

The answer depends on your use case and if you already had the lens.

The following use cases fit the Nikkor UW 15 pretty well:

  1. Videos of sharks or pelagic that do not come too close where ambient light is low
  2. Photos at mid range with fairly static scenes where you want straight lines for example fashion models

The lens is definitely not easy to use for dynamic shots, situations where you need to get very close (as it does not focus very close) and where you need to continuosly adjust focus.

In terms of costs in GBP you are looking at:

£474 Nauticam Nikonos Adapter 37202

£300-500 Second hand Nikkor UW15

Obviously if you already have the lens and you are in one of the above use cases I would recommend you get an adapter and give it a go perhaps looking on the second hand market.

If instead you do not have the lens I would say not to bother unless money is no object, you are in the two use cases above and you have sufficent dexterity to control this lens.

Undewater photography has moved forward a great deal thanks to autofocus and although the Nikkor UW 15 is really sharp getting critical focus right is not easy. When it comes to video where you do not normally use autofocus for wide angle this lens is really interesting.

You can shoot at f/5.6 even f/4 subjects in the distance in ambient light with extremely clear and sharp detail at a fraction of the cost of other water contact optics. If you do not own any of the WACP or WWL I would say the UW 15 deserves some considerations but only if your command of depth of field and focus is very good otherwise it is better to pass.

Moving to Full Frame without increasing bulk or at least not excessively!

Many things have changed since Helen housed her Canon Ixus65 in a polycarbonate housing.

Compact cameras are practically extinct and those left have either a port system as the lens is too long or a shorter 24-70mm equivalent lens which is not useful.

Nauticam developed the N85 port system for Sony APSC (also small form factor) and Micro Four Thirds and since mid 2010s those are the prevaling systems for interchangeable lens system underwater.

APSC in the mirrorless Sony format and today Fuji has lacked native fisheye lenses and been plagued by slow flash sync speed and challenges of battery life.

When it comes to DSLR there is no significant size difference between APSC and full frame when you look at the body but moving into lenses there is a substantial difference with the Tokina 10-17mm being the lens of choice for a compact set up for both Nikon and Canon shooters.

Moving to full frame DSLR has meant historically larger ports bigger lenses and a lot more weight especially if you consider larger domes or the newer water contact optics all in excess of 2Kg and frequently more.

When you look at mirrorless the newer Nikon and Canon systems all use the N120 port system so there is no size difference between DSLR and Mirrorless.

In addition if you are already using N120 dome ports like I am you will soon find out that depending on your housing the weight benefit is not entirely there even for Sony camera whose housing are lighter and use the N100 port system. However housing are in general lighter up to 800 grams less.

Today if you want to have a portable ILC camera for photography you are really only looking at the Olympus/ OM Systems range.

If you have made the choice to get larger N120 ports or you have a Panasonic GH series your housing is already pretty big and moving to full frame will impact only when it comes to certain ports.

Let’s dive into this topic.

Here a first perspective of the A1 housing vs the GH5 housing.

GH5 vs A1 front view

Rear side view

Rear view note how the Sony has joystick controls

And finally top view

Head to Head

You can see that the A1 housing is a bit thicker a bit wider but not a great deal and the GH5 is taller.

Dimensions340mm (W) × 169mm (H) × 125mm (D)
A1 Dimensions
Dimensions331mm (W) × 184mm (H) × 110mm (D)
GH5 Dimensions

Looking at the weight on the scale

NA-GH5 2454 grams
NA-A1 Weight

Difference is 320 grams the weigtht are higher than reported as there is a vacuum valve installed.

This means that as the GH5 system was already heavy due to the clam shell housing the difference in weight will come from the lenses and ports.

As I use the N120 system for wide angle already the difference in that use case would come from larger adapter weight or larger ports.

For flat ports on the N85 system there will be instead a weight disadvantage due to the different diameter but this is less than the delta between N85 and N120.

In my future posts I will show my port system for the Sony A1 that has the objective of:

  1. Reducing bulk without totally compromising image quality
  2. Use as much as possible ports I already had
  3. Reduce the overall number of parts and adapters
  4. Offer complete focal range coverage for wide angle

As you will see my macro choices will not go into a direction of reducing weight or bulk but there is a reason for that. You could argue that by using the GH5 and the N120 system I had already killed portability and that is true however unless you want to shoot native lenses on Olympus system there are no real better options to keep image quality and still be relatively light.

Stay tuned for the next articles that will introduce my choices for:

Index of articles with my choice of lenses and ports (continuosly updated):

  1. Fisheye zoom port
  2. Fisheye
  3. WWL-1 wet lens
  4. Rectilinear lens
  5. Macro

Environmental Conditions joy and despair of the photographer

A few weeks ago I went diving in Swanage with BSOUP the British Society of Underwater Photographers that I have recently joined.

I was looking forward to some local diving so when I found out that they were organising a trip I managed to get on.

I drove there the night before and I was number two on the pier the next day.

It was a deceiving clear morning with perfect conditions on land.

I had two cameras one in the housing and one for land use so I took a few snaps.

Once parked on the pier I was informed by two friends that dive locally all the time that it was better to wait when the water level was a bit higher.

At that point it did look like a great day however there was a bit of wind.

I had my GH5M2 with the Panasonic 45mm macro that I acquired last year and has become my favourite macro lens.

I jumped in the water one of the first to find out the visibility was well maybe 1 meter? I could not see the LCD screen of the camera due to the suspended particles and had to use the viewfinder

One of the first things I say was this corkwing wrasse with a massive parasite near its eye.

Unfortunately I did not have a snoot or strobes suited for the challenge so I spend the first dive training myself on how to get the least amount of back scatter. Mind you when there are particles you will have backscatter not matter what you do.

Static subjects are ideal for testing so I had a go at some really simple stuff.

And again some anemone the object was to get the cleanest possible shot.

When I was reasonably happy I moved to some more interesting subject I gave up on blennies as I knew everyone would have shot some and besides my strobes were not the best for the situation and I found a cooperating cuttlefish.

I can tell you that to get this clean shot it took me quite a while but on reflection despite being very low I could not even see a hint of the surface so bad the conditions so I decided to get really close.

I wanted to emulate a profile of a person or perhaps an elephant not sure but I took a number of shots waiting for the tentacles to be in the right position and this is my best shot for the day.

I would say it is quite creepy but after all I had something decent and when I presented the shot in the club review at the sailing club it got some good feedback.

Now with that in mind let’s have a look at some shots taken in clearer water this is from Sorrento Peninsula.

Blenny Gold

You can see that clearer water improves contrast and sharpness as you would expect however as the UK shot was very close the gap is not as big.

And this is a shot from last time I was in the red sea

This is super macro so again suspended particles are not as important.

However if we look at a mid-range shot similar to the whole cuttelfish the situation is very different.

Here we are in Italy.

The Look

And finally here in the red sea.

Napo Lips

For as much as we may love our local dive site there is a degree of adaptation but also a restriction on the variety of shots we can take.

When I was working as resident dive instructor I remember the guidelines we were passed one was really funny and said:

“if the visibility is crap you don’t say that to the guests what you say is today we are going to focus on macro” then you make sure you choose a site where there is some.

I am looking forward to my boat in the Red Sea end of July remember if you follow me on instragram there may be some voucher codes to be used for discount.

If like me you have been trying to make the most of your local dive site you deserve to get yourself in clear water where you can actually see further away than your arm. Of course we do have some good days in England sometimes 5 even 8 meters but I tale Egypt and their 25+ meters any day of the week!

A closing thought on conditions and land photography, in fact even if visibility is not an issue most times unless you have fog, overcast days, excessively clear days do not make great land pictures either so we can say we are always on a quest chasing light and conditions.

Panasonic GH5M2 and GH6 HDMI Lag Optimisation

Key Facts

  • The camera live view is one frame behind due to the image processing pipeline, faster refresh rates reduce delays
  • HDMI latency does not depend on cable length
  • Most monitors have low latency
  • HDMI can carry audio and video and those need to be synchronised: if one of them is slower than the other a delay is introduced to match up
  • Resolution plays a role but not as important as others

GH5M2 and GH6 Lag between LCD and HDMI

  • The camera LCD has a resolution of 960×640 pixels and a refresh rate of 60 fps that can be reduced to 30 fps
  • When recording the camera shows the live view on the LCD with a delay of c 1 frame from real life
  • If you go into the menu HDMI Recording Output and set Sound Output  OFF you can see the real lag between the LCD and the HDMI
  • This lag is typically 2 frames from the LCD 
  • As frame  rate drops the lag increases
  • When the Sound is disabled the lag of the GH6 is generally better than the GH5M2
Measurements Results

Video Tutorial with my recommended settings

Items shown in this video

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8. Atomos Ninja V: https://amzn.to/3MEKia0

HDMI Optimisation Wrap Up

  • Monitoring has acceptable delays from live time 50-150ms
  • Audio recording introduces a delay of 65ms on the GH5M2 and 35mm on the GH6 
  • The GH5M2 lag  of 190ms in 24p is too high and should be reduced to 160ms
  • There is a bug in the 30p mode on the GH6 as the lag is higher than 24p this needs to be corrected

Panasonic GH6 Power Solutions

The GH6 has the same USB power capabilities introduced in the GH5M2.

In this video I show you what I use with my cameras.

Initially with the GH5 I could only use a dummy battery kit and this will continue to work however it may have challenges with mechanical shutter or very high bitrate codecs of the GH6.

Therefore the recommended solution is a PD Power Bank

Pay attention to the checks you need to do as your power bank needs to deliver 9V 3A which usually means at least 45W better 65W

US

1. Dummy battery kit: https://amzn.to/3sFarxp

2. 65W PD Power Bank: https://amzn.to/35Kh6gW

3. Cheap USB Power Bank: https://amzn.to/3IVhM1u

4. USB C Cable: https://amzn.to/3tnsreQ

UK

1. Dummy battery kit: Currently Not Available

2. 65W PD Power Bank: https://amzn.to/3KgGfih

3. Cheap USB Power Bank: https://amzn.to/3HBGDGk

4. USB C Cable: https://amzn.to/3sGBmcj

Panasonic GH6 my preliminary key observations for Underwater use

I was able to have a 1 hour hands on session with Lumix yesterday and try some of the GH6 features.

Key points

  • Beautifully engineered machine
  • 1 stop dynamic range increase appears to be true
  • LCD design with tilt will make easier to see underwater
  • Records ProRes 422 HQ to CFExpress Card
  • Support HDMI 2.1 (playback only)
  • Battery same as the S5 and newer GH5M2
  • Battery consumption 25 to 35% higher in MP4
  • Significant HDMI lag if you use a recorder (1/4 of a second)
  • Will record to USB with a future firmware update
  • Will record prores raw externally with a future firmware update
  • No battery grip

I am going to do a longer write up once I have tested the camera for land wildife use however I have the following concerns

  1. What is the real battery life when you record ProRes to card instead of the low quality MP4, will it last at least one dive?
  2. HDMI lag is horrible just received confirmation that HDMI recording is capped at 4K resolution This proved to be a red herring as the lag is decreased from the GH5 series see here https://interceptor121.com/2022/03/10/panasonic-gh5m2-and-gh6-hdmi-lag-optimisation/
  3. The lag of the HDMI can be reduced if you use only a  monitor with a few tricks and it only needs HDMI 1.4
  4. The USB recording will be powered by the camera and the battery is already small

My recommendations for a professional grade housing would be:

  • Recording to card either 4K@60 or 5.7@30 depending on your use case
  • Optional monitor to run in 1080p to reduce lag HDMI 1.4 is sufficient
  • PD Power bank inside the housing so you are sure you will not run out for an entire day of shooting

For photography a classic housing would work but then who is going to get this just for photos?

Stay tuned for more information. If there is something you want to know about the camera use the comment feature here.

Panasonic GH5S Review – Conclusion

I hope you found the tests useful and I guess the key question is:

Is the GH5S still worth it in 2022?

I have prepared a comparison table with the GH5 and GH5M2 using data available and for noise my subjective measurements supported by the video evidence.

As you can see from the table the GH5S still has some unique features:

  • RAW support (ProRes RAW and BRAW)
  • VLOG performance
  • High ISO performance straight out of camera
  • Slightly lighter and better battery life

So if any of the above are essential to you there is still a case for the GH5S.

However the GH5M2 with Neat Video will cost you $1,699+$129=$1,828, for sure you will have to work without Vlog and RAW but you will have many other benefits and you will not need a recorder to shoot 50/60 fps bringing the overall cost down significantly.

Panasonic GH5S long overdue review – Part III Low light Field Test

For part 3 of my test I ran the GH5S side by side with GH5M2 with the same settings used for daylight. The GH5S used VLOG which is the best photo style for it while the GH5M2 used CineD2, again the best photo style for it. Bear in mind if you had run this comparison with both cameras on VLOG the GH5S would have trashed the GH5M2 at high ISO because the implementation of VLOG in the GH5M2 is simply not performing.

The two cameras were set in multi metering with focus at hyperfocal distance. I tried to match the field of view using the 10-25mm on the GH5M2, make no mistake the PL 15/1.7 I used on the GH5S is an amazing and very sharp lens. Both cameras were set to auto white balance and I put the GH5M2 in auto ISO because it shows on screen the value it is using while the GH5S was set in complete manual. Whenever the GH5S was displaying a negative value on the meter I would increase ISO 1/3 Ev. The GH5M2 was left to deal with it in auto as I had previously confirmed the meters were aligned, or at least this is what I thought until this test.

GH5S left and GH5M2 right

I started all the way from ISO 200 and waited until night fall.

If you want to watch the video and form your own view here is the link. You will need a Tv with zoom function to be able to see the fine details.

My expectation was that the cameras would perform almost the same until ISO 1600 at that point the dual gain of the GH5S should produce better results. I will spare the analysis at lower ISO values as it does not really say much.

Analysis

As explained in the video you need to focus on three part of the image. The top part and any residual tone of the sky tells you if the camera is loosing DR. The tables at the bottom are a sign of loss of detail due to noise but also of possible temporal noise reduction. Temporal noise is a flickering resulting from noise scattered differently in the frames. When the image retains detail but has this flicker it is said to have temporal noise. If the clip looks stable but lacking a bit of edge details it is a sign of potential temporal noise reduction in camera.

Due to the lower pixel count temporal noise reduction in the GH5S would perform better than in a higher pixel count camera.

ISO 1250

Here the GH5S is in low gain and my expectation was performance to be very similar. At this ISO value the GH5S retained good detail however showed more noise in each part of the frame.

GH5M2 Moving Detail
Same detail on the GH5S note the added chroma noise

The noise levels appear identical in the static parts of the frame.

GH5M2 static detail

All in all at ISO 1250 the situation appears very similar the GH5S has a bit more noise but still have detail compared to the GH5M2.

ISO 2000

The light dropped suddenly so I did not manage to record the ISO 1600 step on both camera at the same time as I was distracted by external factors (had to order at the bar).

GH5M2 detail at ISO 2000
GH5S ISO 2000

Although the noise appear similar I would say the GH5S retained more detail at ISO 2000, consider the observation is far away and on the edges of the frame so it is a difficult scenario.

GH5MS static detail
GH5S static detail

Looking at the static part gives a different picture with the GH5M2 having an edge and the GH5S smudging details.

ISO 2500

I was expecting the GH5S to be a clear winner at its second native ISO.

GH5M2 detail birds moving
GH5S detail

The part of the frame with motion did not show a much better detail for the GH5S while the static part looked cleaner.

GH5M2 static detail
GH5S static detail

This behaviour makes me think that the GH5S has a stronger temporal noise reduction filter. When it does not detect motion it goes down hard resulting in a very clean image. When it does detect movement it becomes more cautious especially if the moving parts use only a small area. This would explain the mixed behaviour in the ISO 2500 situation.

Overall I was expecting much better performance and a clear difference between the two.

ISO 3200

My expectation was that as the ISO was going up the gap between the two cameras would have increased however at ISO 3200 I was surprised to see the GH5M2 made a recovery and the quality is almost identical.

GH5M2 ISO 3200 motion detail
GH5S motion detail

In addition I can see the GH5S noise reduction starting to eliminate some details when it can’t quite work out what to do. Look at the table tops near the two walkers in the frame.

GH5M2 Static detail
GH5S static detail

ISO 3200/4000

At this point I was presented an additional surprise the two camera started to have a gap in the metering so for a good few minutes the GH5M2 stayed on ISO 3200 while the GH5S was reaching out for more gain.

Ultimately this resulted in identical image quality in the parts with motion with the GH5S retaining some fine details better but the GH5M2 producing at the end a comparable result.

GH5M2 ISO 3200 Motion Detail
GH5S ISO 4000 Motion Detail

I won’t bore you with the static parts as they look identical.

ISO 4000/5000

The GH5M2 reached ISO 4000 however the GH5S had already moved to 5000. The consequence is that the image quality was the same.

GH5M2 ISO 4000 Motion Detail
GH5S ISO 5000 Motion Detail

Again the static parts were the same.

ISO 5000

Eventually both cameras were at ISO 5000 and here I could see a lead of the GH5S in the motion details but no benefit in the static details in terms of sharpness. However when you actually play the footage you can see the flickering of the temporal noise on the GH5M2.

GH5M2 ISO 5000 Motion Detail
GH5S ISO 5000 Motion Detail

The static details retain the same definition and resolution.

GH5M2 ISO 5000 Static detail
GH5S ISO 5000 Static detail

At this point is very clear to me that what is giving an edge up to now to the GH5S is the superior performance of noise reduction in camera as the actual dynamic range did not seem to be an element. If at all the sky becomes washed out sooner in the GH5S.

ISO 6400

From this point onwards the GH5S takes the lead however I would not say that the resulting image quality was very high. I would frankly avoid this ISO level but in desperate cases can certainly be used.

GH5M2 ISO 6400 Motion Detail
GH5S ISO 6400 Motion Detail

Perhaps more interestingly the GH5M2 although more noisy seems to preserver more details of the static part.

GH5M2 ISO 6400 static detail
GH5S ISO 6400 static detail

Noise Reduction

It became apparent during this test and you will see it clearly in the video that the GH5S has a very effective in camera noise reduction (even with NR=-5 this is still on) potentially because it does not have many pixels and can be quite aggressive with it. I tried using Neat Video with the GH5S however there was loss of detail, with the GH5M2 I could apply a temporal filter to the ISO 5000 you can see the results in the video and see what you think.

Light Levels

I was surprised to see the camera meter reading differently considering the matched set up. I also could see that the light level had to fall considerably so that the GH5S would have a benefit. In substance until both cameras were at ISO 5000 (I was using f/1.7 lenses) it did not look like the higher sensitivity of the GH5S was sufficient on its own to give a performance edge.

Higher ISO

I continued the test all the way to ISO 25600 for the GH5S the results were not exciting although you could say the camera does a decent job at showing some information. In general it seemed the camera was running out of dynamic range and also of image quality.

GH5S ISO 10000 static detail
GH5S ISO 10000
GH5M2 ISO 12800

At this point (ISO 12800) I would say that the benefit of the GH5S was now a full stop. In addition it can go to 25600.

GH5S ISO 25600

Low Light Sensitivity

I was expecting to see a material difference between the GH5S and the GH5M2 from ISO 1600 or at latest ISO 2500 with this gap growing at higher values. What I have seen instead is a bizarre progression where the GH5M2 would catch up and almost match the GH5S until ISO 4000 with a clear benefit only when the exposure was 5000 for both. It looks like in line with the aptina Dr Pix paper benefits only arrive near 0.01 lux*sec becoming higher later.

So we need 50% of ambient light * exposure time / aperture stop to be 0.01.

If we think about it f/2 1/60 this means aperture in stop is 2 which means a factor of 4. So working the inverse in order to get 0.01 lux*sec we would have 2*60*4*0.01=4.8 Lux.

If we consider an f/1/7 lens than this becomes 3.4 Lux and finally with an f/1.4 lens this would be 2.4 Lux.

In reality most f/1.4 or f/1.7 lenses really are just f/1.8 or f/2 so a value of 4 Lux for ambient light is reasonable. And this is the point where the benefit would start getting better as it goes darker. This is also consistent with my test the real performance difference started really to manifest a lot at ISO 5000 and became higher later.

We also have to consider thought that certain part of the image like the deep shadows will show a benefit sooner even if the ambient light is broadly sufficient. So it is not as clear cut as it would appear and the test confirmed such behaviours.

Conclusion

Perhaps the biggest surprise was how effective a traditional front illuminated sensor can be and how small was the gap with the GH5M2.

A key difference between my tests and others you can find on the net is that nobody actually runs tests with two cameras side by side and we have seen that at high ISO values the cameras did not meter exactly the same but what matters is the image quality at that point in time so the test still stands.

One thing has to be said though and this is that as of today if you want a micro four thirds camera style device (not a box or a cinema camera with no weather sealing) that works in low light with VLOG you are left with only one choice and that is the GH5S.

In the next part a wrap and some considerations about use cases and current competition for the GH5S.

Panasonic GH5S long overdue review – Part II Daylight Field Test

The second part of the test consisted in running the GH5S in parallel to the GH5M2 using CineD2. If you wonder why I did not use VLOG on the GH5M2 is because as discussed in a previous article VLOG on the GH5/GH5M2 is just a picture profile and does not really do anything other than deteriorate the noise in the shadows. So I used CineD2 as I wanted the maximum performance out of the GH5M2. The GH5S instead performs better in VLOG for reasons explained in the VLOG article as well.

So with the two cameras on tripods I went out for a walk and took several shots with similar exposure settings. Instead of using ISO 400 I used 200 on the GH5M2 which means the lens was one stop brighter on the GH5M2.

GH5S left and GH5M2 right

The practical tests confirmed what I was expecting based on the light box tests:

  1. The GH5S has a tendency to oversaturated reds and move blue to cyan so deep blues in the sky are almost never available. This was not so much of an issue during this test as the sky was overcast however you can see the clouds do not really have any blue tones.
  2. Auto white balance during the day performed consistently to the GH5M2 generating most times the same reading or at most a 200K difference. On this basis I do not understand why users speak about a magenta cast in some shots.
  3. The GH5S had better battery performance of the GH5M2 and I think this has to do with the LCD which is now much dimmer than the new camera as you can see in the picture.
  4. I did not see any more dynamic range in the GH5S. I would say a tad less than the GH5M2 on CineD2 at base ISO. This is visible in the second scene where I spot metered on the subject. Both camera had almost no tones left in the sky although they did not clip with the GH5M2 having perhaps an edge there.
Uncorrected out of camera waveform for the GH5S exposed to the right in VLOG
Uncorrected out of camera waveform for the GH5M2 exposed to the right in CineD2

Looking at the waveform after ETTR with the cameras showing near clipping you can see that the highlights are practically the same however VLOG has lower midtones and less darks.

This is the full video on youtube so you can make your own calls. The footage has been stretched to maximise DR ad hoc in the first scene and hues have been corrected for daylight. No other grading has been performed. In the second scene both cameras were maxed out and no further stretching has been done as it was not improving the scene.

The potential benefit of the GH5S over other models

The following table extrapolates the GH5S dynamic range considering a shift of 3dB in gain (ISO 400 -> 200 shifted)

ISO SettingGH5M2GH5SGH5Delta GH5M2 MaxDelta GH5 Max
4009.089.298.530.210.76
5038.719.048.220.330.82
6368.488.687.840.20.84
8008.178.397.530.220.86
10068.028.087.250.060.83
12737.657.766.950.110.81
16007.337.876.610.541.26
20116.907.636.300.731.33
25466.667.275.960.611.31
32006.286.995.650.711.34
40225.986.695.320.711.37
50915.646.374.970.731.4
64005.306.064.600.761.46
80455.015.714.310.71.4
101834.685.403.940.721.46
128004.335.043.590.711.45
16090
4.76

GH5M2

GH5
20366
4.39Avg0.5031251.16875
25600
4.07Min0.060.76



Max0.761.46
PDR table with gain shit

Please note this is an extrapolation I have not take measures however assuming VLOG impacts all cameras equally once gain is taken into account what you see there is that the GH5S has a potential benefit between 0.76 and 1.46 Ev over the original GH5 which is consistent with user experiences and website tests.

When you look at the GH5M2 the potential benefit drops to 0.5 and under 1600 is almost zero becoming 2/3 Ev when the GH5S is in high gain. This is also consistent to various tests on websites like dpreview and CineD.

The table does not consider however that CineD2 on the GH5M2 does accomplish more than VLOG in virtue of less noise and also does not consider the fact that some of the DR will be lost in the underexposure happening behind the scenes.

Part 2 Wrap Up

It is not difficult to see that the GH5S has good performance in daylight conditions however it does not really have any edge worth investing in it for this use case. So if you are not always at high ISO levels (>>1600) you may be getting better value from the GH5M2 that costs less takes photos and has IBIS. To be perfectly honest due to the way VLOG works I did not see major benefit even when I tested the S5 because the extra DR in the highlight was not really useful.

When we look at the GH5 instead the GH5S does remain superior but this is due to weakness of the GH5 itself. It really is quite clear that the software stack of the GH5 is really dated and the camera fairly noisy.

In the next article I will analyse two side by side shots of the GH5S and GH5M2 in low light.